Touring Olympic National Park in Washington

From Seattle, we made our way south, west, and back north along the Puget Sound to Olympic National Park.  Since we did not leave too early, we arrived on the west side of the Sound around lunchtime and relied on our go-to phone app, yelp, for a place to eat.  Being adventurous, we opted for Pho T & N, a Vietnamese restaurant with wonderful reviews.  We ordered two suggested menu items, the vegetarian pho and the short ribs, shrimp and rice.  They were tasty, and we received huge portion sizes, but we were out of our element in the restaurant. We had to ask what to do with all the sides!  Colin talked to the manager for a bit and learned about the Vietnamese traditions of adding fresh ingredients to the pho (soup dish) just before eating.  By this time we had eaten most of the ribs/shrimp/rice since the soup had been too hot.  We ended up taking most of the pho with us and wished we had done the reverse.  We ended up eating the pho for another day and a half and by that time the powerful smell was getting repulsive.

Vietnamese short ribs, shrimp, rice, salad, and veggie roll

Traditional Vegetarian Pho

As we made our way to Olympic National Park, we drove off the main road in Sequim, WA to see the Dungeness National Wildlife Refuge.  We wanted to explore the park and get on the sand peninsula, but didn't have cash for the park entrance fee.  There was a park volunteer stationed at the entrance to the path, and we tried to get change for a $20. Not being able to see what the park offered, we were not willing to pay that much at the entrance, but probably would have donated it if our experience was enjoyable.  

From the recreation area road, we were able to see Victoria, BC across the water and enjoy another glorious day.

Beyond the ship is Victoria, British Columbia

Our next stop was the Hurricane Ridge Visitor Center in Olympic National Park.  On the drive up the mountain, we has some wonderful views to the Dungeness Peninsula, the town of Sequim, and a better view of Vancouver Island in British Columbia.  We were also approached by some wildlife, who wanted to get a tad bit too close for my comfort!  

Looking down on Dungeness National Wildlife Refuge

Bambi and her calf seemed too comfortable near the cars and people

View from Hurricane Ridge, Olympic National Park

Enjoying a short, 1 mile (ish) hike at Hurricane Ridge

Since it was the Friday of Labor Day weekend, we assumed it would be difficult to find lodging closer to Seattle, so we continued farther into the park to try and camp on the western edge.  Unfortunately, there were no airbnb rentals, and non-camping lodging was sparse.  I would have loved to camp at the Sol Duc Hot Springs, not far from Hurricane Ridge, but we were warned that the popular campground would likely be full.  It would have been too far out of our way if we did not find a site, and our drive the next day would have been very long.  Thankfully, we managed to get one of the last 4 campsites available in Hoh Rain Forest.  Our backup plan would have been to pull of on the side of a National Forest Service Road to sleep.  We found out that was allowed at one of the park visitor centers.

As we passed Forks, WA, I was tempted to drive into town to see where the Twilight Series was based, but I know Colin would not have enjoyed the detour.  In addition, the sun was getting very low in the sky and we were nervous about arriving too late at the campground.  I did manage to see some stores with posters of the cast along the main road.  

During our drive into the Hoh Rain Forest, we very briefly saw an Elk as it made its way across the road and into the woods.  I didn't even have time to grab my camera!

Our dinner spot on Lake Crescent as we make our 

way across the northern portion of Olympic National Park

The river adjacent to the campground in the Hoh Rain Forest

Our campsite at the Hoh Rain Forest Campground

We arrived at the campsite around 10pm and decided it wasn't worth setting up the tent, so we inflated the air mattress in the back of the Subaru and slept in the car. The queen mattress was a little big for the SUV, so we couldn't inflate it all the way, but it still served the purpose.  It's not like I can sleep in a tent anyway!  I bet a full size mattress would have fit.

Just like in the Redwoods and Crater Lake, it got very cold overnight.  Our experience at the Hoh Rain Forest was similar to the Redwoods because everything was also very damp in the morning.  We tried going for a 3 mile hike to warm up, but that didn't work so well. The best way I warmed up was to blast the hot air on my hands and feet and get the seat warmer going in the car!

Vivid greens in the rain forest

The 3 mile hiking trail at the Hoh Rain Forest

I would have more thoroughly enjoyed 

the beautiful views if I wasn't so cold!

By 9am, we were warmed up (thank you Subaru Forester!) and back on Highway 101 heading south along the coast (yes, we get up VERY early when camping!).  Our next destination was the mouth of the Columbia River, where we hoped to secure another camping spot for the evening after our 3-4 hour drive.  Again, we knew it would be risky because of the holiday weekend, but we took our chances and drove without having a reservation anywhere in the area.  Unfortunately, none of the campgrounds accepted reservations anyway.

Stopping at a beach near Kalaloch to stretch and enjoy the view

A slight detour around Lake Quinault

We made just the two stops along Highway 101 in Olympic National Park Saturday morning to experience all the beauty the diversity within the park has to offer.  It was impressive to see the snow-capped peaks of the tallest mountains at Hurricane Ridge, and then experience a rain forest on the western side of the park.  If you haven't already noticed, we are also drawn to the water.  We can't get enough of beaches and lakes.

Stay tuned for the last two posts about the trip to the Pacific Northwest.  If you are a Goonies fan, you'll definitely want to read the next one!

What should we have ordered from a Vietnamese Restaurant?  Or did we made the best decision?

Was there anything we missed in Olympic National Park that you've experienced? 

A Really Wonderful Day Back in Seattle

We arrived back in Seattle fairly late in the day because we had spent almost all morning in Vancouver, enjoying breakfast and chatting with our hostess and the other airbnb guest.  Then, we had to wait in a fairly long line of traffic at the US-Canada border.  Thankfully, the weather was beautiful when we arrived in Seattle and we had a wonderful afternoon and evening.

Our first stop was to get lunch.  We HAD to try this tiny Cuban sandwich place called Paseo.  On Yelp, this tiny eatery has been reviewed over 1700 times and has 4.5 stars!  If you aren't familiar with Yelp, 50 reviews is a lot, so 1700 is not something I have ever seen before.  We opted for the two most popular sandwiches, the Caribbean Roast and the Paseo Press.  That many positive reviews certainly was no mistake and the sandwiches were mouth-watering delicious.  We savored every bite of our sandwiches, while we sat on some rocks at the water's edge in the Freemont section of Seattle.

The most amazing Cuban Sandwiches every eaten!

I had heard many wonderful things about the Freemont section of Seattle, which is how we ended up finding Paseo.  After lunch, we walked along the river that connects Lake Union/Union Bay and Puget Sound, and stumbled upon the Theo Chocolate Factory.  The tours for the remainder of the day were already full, but we had a great time taste testing the 20 or so samples of chocolate in their store.  After our delicious lunch and some walking, it was the best dessert we could have asked for!  I've seen Theo Chocolates in Whole Foods, but I had never bought a bar.  Getting to try all the samples allowed me to find a few favorites, like the almond, coconut, and the dark chocolates.  We ended up bringing back some drinking chocolate because the sales woman suggested they were not frequently sold across the U.S.  Thankfully they are, in fact, sold in our local stores.

From the chocolate factory, we set out to look for the famous Freemont Troll, located under the Aurora Bridge.  The troll is hideous and enormous. We were not the only tourists checking it out and I had to run in for Colin to snap a quick photo before other tourists did the same.

Running in for a picture with the Freemont Troll

When we tired ourselves with all the walking, we made our way by car to Chittenden Locks.  The locks were very close to the Freemont section and there was quite a bit of activity as it approached 5pm.  We were able to see the locks raise and lower the water to allow boats to pass through. We also got to see quite a few salmon swimming in the fish ladder, and a seal swimming close by.

One of the many boats coming into the locks

Chittenden Locks

Fish ladder on the right, seal swimming on the left

Couldn't quite figure out what type of salmon were swimming in the ladder

Close-up of the seal swimming close to the fish ladder

Boats waiting patiently to pass through the locks

When we checked into our airbnb rental and talked to our host, a middle school math teacher, we found out the Seattle Seahawks had a preseason game at home that evening.  He suggested we try to get tickets on craigslist.  We did try, but were unsuccessful in finding tickets that way.  Instead, we drove down to Pioneer Square just as the game was about to start. We drove around for about 10 minutes before we found a spot not too far away.  Then, we walked towards the stadium with our eyes peeled for scalpers.  It didn't take long to find them and since it was already almost 30 minutes into the game, we easily got tickets for $20.  In the small stadium, the upper deck seats did not seem very far from the field and we enjoyed the atmosphere, the stadium, and getting to be outdoors on a beautiful night!

Arriving at Century Link Field in Seattle

The Seattle skyline from the field as the evening approaches sunset

Seats in the upper deck for $20

Seattle skyline at night

We stayed almost to the end of the game, but the 4th string quarterback was not that exciting.  During our walk back to the car, we admired that the stadium was so close to downtown, public transportation, the historic district and so many bars and restaurants.  

Our airbnb rental was another comfortable room, with gracious hosts that offered coffee, bread and jam for us to enjoy at breakfast.  The best quality about this rental was the view!  Colin and I enjoyed a leisure breakfast while sitting on the outdoor balcony.  We were amazed at all the sea planes that took off and landed in Lake Union.

Stay tuned for our adventures in Olympic National Park!

What is your favorite flavor of Theo Chocolate?

What football stadium is your favorite and why?

Back in Vancouver for a Day

We woke to cloudy, damp weather in Whistler again on Wednesday morning and decided we were ready to head back to Vancouver, hoping there would be sun once we left the mountains.  On our way back along the Sea to Sky Highway, the clouds broke a bit and we got to see some blue skies and pockets of sun.  The drive between Whistler and Vancouver really is picturesque.

One of the many beautiful views on the Sea to Sky Highway

Back in Vancouver, we visited a few places that we did not see while on bikes. One of these places was the Gastown district, the historic area of the city. There was a steam clock that drew a great deal of attention with the steam and whistles that announced the passage of 15 minutes.  We parked ourselves in the Starbucks across the street for a bit to use the free wi-fi and while seated there, I managed to get a photo of the clock when the steam was visible.

The Gastown steam clock steaming and whistling every 15 minutes.

View of the cruise ship docked at Canada Place with 

North Vancouver in the distance and dark clouds looming overhead

After a leisure stroll through Gastown and a quick walk through the seedy Chinatown district, we found a small gem of a restaurant at La Taqueria.  Colin really wanted to try beef tongue, so we ordered a Taco "De Lengua."  And, since the tacos were so small, and a better deal to get 4, we also tried the pork "Carnitas," the fish "Pescado," and chicken, "Tinga de Pollo."

Eating beef tongue tacos from La Taqueria was the highlight for Colin

We made our way out of the city to the suburbs in southeastern Vancouver to check into our airbnb accommodations  Our very friendly host spent a lot of time getting to know us and sharing some of her travel adventures with us. We weren't really sure what we wanted to do with the afternoon, and had thought taking a ferry to Vancouver Island would be fun.  By the time we arrived, it was almost 4pm.  The rain had mostly stayed away, but on the boat we did experience showers on and off that kept us moving in and out of the boat for the hour and a half ride.  We kept our eyes focused on the water, looking for the pods of orca that make their home in the waters along our ride, but we never managed to see any.  

Another British Columbia Ferry coming through the small channel

One of the moments of clear skies

A sea plane landing nearby

In hindsight, we wished we had made plans to take an early ferry so we could have taken the bus to Victoria on Vancouver Island.  By the time we arrived at the ferry terminal, it would have been too late to catch a bus back for the last ferry back to Vancouver.  Instead, we got off the boat and turned right back around to come back.  The rain was more prevalent on the ride back and we found out the ship crew typically made announcements to alert people to wildlife near the ship. So, we stayed warm inside the boat, trying desperately to get a good wi-fi signal on our phones.

It was nice to be on the water, though I prefer sunny skies and warmer temperatures.  We also met a really interesting couple from Canada. The female was from an eastern island off the coast of Newfoundland and he was from Vancouver Island, the two farthest points from each other and they lived near the center of the country in Ottawa.  Working for the federal government, they had a significant amount of vacation time they were able to use together and decided to make a cross country trip on the train. I loved hearing about their hometowns and the experience of traveling cross country on a train.

Arriving back at the ferry terminal around 7:30pm, we decided to head back near the downtown area for dinner.  One of our favorite food journalists, Mark Bittman, had endorsed Vij's Indian Restaurant just south of Granville Island. Knowing the menu was more expensive than we cared to pay, and having read that Vij's sister restaurant was just as good, we went to the less expensive Vij's Rangoli next door.

The 30 minute wait was more manageable, thanks to some appetizers made available to the people not yet seated.  It was also worth it once we got our delicious meals, which we devoured!  We both left the small, simply decorated restaurant with fully satisfied appetites.

A vegetarian dish with chickpeas

The lamb in cumin

Back at the airbnb, we were able to get some laundry done while our hostess cooked us a delicious egg/peach quiche for breakfast.  We enjoyed getting to know another "renter," a woman from Montreal, who had lived in San Diego for the past few years and had recently quit her job to move back to Canada.  She was taking about 2 months off before starting to look for a new job, and had traveled from San Diego to Vancouver and still had plans to see Whistler and Banff.  Colin and I asked a lot of questions about how she managed to find work in a new location, and were completely in awe of this woman who was taking such a risk.  Her experience in the past had always turned out fine, and we wished her luck before we parted.

I can't imagine just quitting my job and driving to a new location to find work upon arrival. I know several people who have done it and it usually seems to work out for them.  In this economy, it seems like a huge risk, which I'm not sure I could ever take.  I no longer recall the woman's profession, but maybe it is easier in certain industries. 

The highlights of our second time in Vancouver mostly came in getting to meet people - on the ferry, our airbnb hostess, and a fellow traveler.  The Indian food at Vij's was also very memorable. During the 24 hours back in Vancouver, we did not do quite as much sightseeing as we had been used to, but it was nice to talk with people, get laundry done, and just hang out for a bit.  It's a good thing we did because once we left Vancouver and arrived back in the U.S., we were back on full sightseeing mode!

Stay tuned for a recap of our final days in the Pacific Northwest, making our way back through Seattle to Olympic National Park, Cannon Beach, Mt. Hood, and wrapping up in Portland.

What do you think about leaving a job for a new location when you don't already have a job lined up? Would you ever do it? If you have already done it, how did it work out for you??

"Chillin'" in Whistler, British Columbia

The cold, damp weather we've been having here in Raleigh the past two days reminded me of our time in Whistler.  Though we did have a mostly sunny evening when we arrived in Whistler, dusk and cool air arrived too quickly.

Checking out the Olympic rings in Whistler Village

The village was very cute and all the hotels had a modern alpine cottage look to them. There were lots of cute shops (mostly outdoor apparel), a few Starbucks (we used their wi-fi a lot!), and some decent restaurants.  We really enjoyed walking around the village.

One of the many hotels in Whistler Village

For dinner, we made our way to the Irish Pub, Dubh Linn Gate. The evening special was "buy one, get one free" fish and chips with any beverage.  I ordered a cup of tea as my beverage so we could get the special, and Colin also ordered the Steak and Guinness Pie.  Since we planned to spend two nights in Whistler, we figured we could keep some leftovers.

Our small bar table filled with two orders of fish and chips, 

a steak and Guinness pie, two waters, and a cup of tea

When we stayed at the Hostel International in Vancouver (and before we really took stock of the terrible conditions in our room), we had made reservations at the Hostel International in Whistler.  We reserved 2 bunks in a 4 person coed dorm room for $73.  During our stays at the hostel in both Vancouver and Whistler, we kept comparing the Canadian experience to the experiences we had staying in Hostel International rooms in Australia and New Zealand.  To give you the summary, the hostels in Canada were 2-3 times more expensive, the Whistler hostel came close to being among the best ones we stayed in on our previous trip (if you factor out the cost), and the hostel in Vancouver was probably the worst hostel we've ever stayed in.

The clean and modern Hostel International in Whistler

The forecast had predicted that the weather would be favorable on Tuesday, and we made plans to be there for the sun. Unfortunately, we woke to cloudy skies and damp, cool air, which did not go away for the rest of our time visiting the Olympic mountain.  It all turned out just fine because Colin's foot was hurting and it would have been tough for him to do a lot of hiking. Instead, we decided to ride on all the gondolas all day, including the famous (and impressive!) Peak-to-Peak Gondola.

If you visit Whistler, and want to ride the gondolas, I highly recommend starting your day by 10am.  We were up early, but tried to hold out to see if the weather would get better. Instead, it got worse, and when we purchased our tickets, we learned that the last ride down the mountain was at 5pm!  Tickets were a bit pricey, at $45 each, but if we got to the top of the mountain early in the day, and were able to hike some of the trails on a nice day, it would have been worth it!

During our 4-5 hours "exploring" Whistler and Blackcomb Mountains by gondola, we rode four different gondolas for a total of 7 "rides." Not surprisingly, the highlight was riding the Peak-to-Peak Gondola between the Roundhouse Lodge (on Whistler Mountain) and Rendevous Lodge (on Blackcomb Mountain) in each direction.  According to Wikipedia, the Peak to Peak  is 1.88 miles and 1430 feet above the valley.  There were literally four towers supporting the gondolas, with two on each mountain. For the rest of the ride - a solid mile - there was no tower holding us above the valley. I'm not a fan of heights and thought I would freak out, but even to Colin's surprise, I was fine.

Looking down on Whistler Village as we ride the enclosed

Whistler Village Gondola up Whistler Mountain

View from the Roundhouse Lodge towards the 

summit of Whistler (still farther up the mountain)

Making our way up to the top of Whistler Mountain 

on the open-air Peak Express Gondola

Very foggy at the summit of Whistler Mountain, it's a 

good thing there are bright orange warning signs!

We caught glimpses of the mountains 

and the sun throughout the day

Getting ready to board the Peak-to-Peak Gondola

Suspended 1400 feet above the 

valley with no towers in sight!

Warming up with some lentil soup in the Rendezvous Lodge

Looking for bears, enjoying the flowers, and trying 

not to freeze on the Solar Coastal Express Gondola

The enclosed gondolas (Peak-to-Peak and Whistler Village Gondola) were a tad bit warmer than the "open chair" gondolas, but it was much harder to take pictures through the glass with the rain drops on the window.  After riding a few open chairs, I was ready to get back down the mountain and into a hot shower.  That seems to be the best way to warm back up after being outdoors in cold, damp weather.

For our second night in Whistler, we had tried to get a good deal on a "name your own price" hotel in Whistler Village, but were unsuccessful. Instead, we found an inexpensive airbnb room not far from the main area.  The private bath had plenty of hot water (thankfully!), and the small room (with it's own thermostat) was comfortable enough to enjoy a good night's sleep. We were able to leave our leftovers in the fridge before heading out the the gondolas, and it was nice to step out of the hot shower and have a warm plate of fish and chips ready to eat!

Before turning in for the night, we stayed warm and enjoyed some tea (me) and dessert (me and Colin) at one of the Starbucks in Whistler Village. There, we caught up on e-mails, booked accommodations for our travels back south, and did a little people-watching.

Overall, we made the best of our day in Whistler. We always enjoy sunny skies and warm weather, and we lucked out for most of the trip. We were bound to have a rainy day.  Because Colin wasn't feeling up to hiking, it was probably best that the weather forced us to limit our activities.  It just means we have to go back!  I'm sure it's quite a sight in the winter, with all the tourists and snow on the mountains.  It's no wonder the Olympics were held in one of the cutest villages I've ever experienced - or perhaps hosting the Olympics caused the village to step up to the plate!  Maybe I can get Colin to try snowboarding with me sometime and we can relive the Olympic experience!!

What was your favorite memory of the 2010 Olympics held in Whistler/Vancouver?
Did you see anything about the village (Whistler) or city (Vancouver) that impressed you?