The Redwoods Really Are Impressive

From Napa Valley, we headed north on Highway 101 towards the coast, where our final destination was Redwood National Park.  We knew there would be multiple campgrounds in the area and hoped some would be open when we arrived.  For that reason, we left fairly early and made just a few stops along the way.

The first stop we made was a bathroom break/tourist stop at the Real Goods Solar Living Institute, a 12-acre demonstration site for permaculture.  One of my travel books suggested it was worth a visit, and we were not very impressed. One cool feature was a bicycle that converted human force into energy.  

A bicycle that converts human energy to usable energy

It reminded me of my science teacher friend who has talked about creating this in his classroom.  I think it’s a brilliant idea and it was cool to see it at work in this institute.  The work this Institute does and what they stand for is really awesome, but we found the grounds difficult to navigate. We arrived too early for their tours and the visitor information center was still closed, so maybe our experience would have been better had we arrived later.

Heading north, we continued on Highway 101 until reaching Humboldt Redwoods State Park and the Avenue of the Giants.  The name refers to the giant redwood trees that line the road as you drive.  We had planned to stop at the giant tree in this area that you can literally drive through, but we missed the turn and didn’t want to backtrack (we were still thinking about campsites that might be filling up).  Instead, we continued about 30 miles on this leisure road that runs parallel to Highway 101, stopping along the way to take pictures and stand among the awe-inspiring trees. 

Colin looks so small among these trees

Enjoying a picturesque drive along the Avenue of the Giants

From Avenue of the Giants, we kept heading north through the beautiful mountains that were enhanced by the sunny skies.  Once we reached the coast, the scene was dramatically different.  The cool air and fog made the coastal towns of Eureka and Arcata look depressing.  During our very brief stop at a dollar store in Eureka (to pick up some bottled water and a can opener), we saw signs of a depressing economy.  We didn’t make the time to visit areas of Eureka off Highway 101, so there may have been better areas to this town.

Checking to see just how cold the water is in northern California

The final leg of our journey to Redwood National Park from Eureka brought us more views of a foggy coast.  Our depressed attitude continued when rangers at the visitor center discouraged us from the campground I had been hoping for on the beach.  We decided to get a “backcountry” camping permit just in case we didn’t find an available site at the campgrounds.  Most national parks have “first come, first serve” campgrounds which can not be reserved in advance. Since it was still fairly early in the day and we didn’t have any grand plans of doing serious hiking in the foggy, cool weather, we decided to drive the 5 miles on the winding dirt road, in our Chevrolet Sonic rental, to the Gold Bluffs Beach Campground to see if any spots were available. 

The drive was worth the trip when we found multiple open sites.  I had read that this campground offered nice campsites on the beach, with showers and clean bathrooms, and this was all true.  Unfortunately, the skies remained overcast, but the afternoon was less foggy and not unbearably cool.

Out campsite with the beach in the background

Colin preparing dinner near the picnic table and metal food storage container

We decided to hike 3-4 miles of trails into the Prairie Creek Redwoods State Park where we hoped to see elk (from a safe distance).  Though we did not see any elk, we continued to be impressed with the Redwood trees, and somehow stumbled upon a beautiful area of the park called Fern Canyon.  Walking on the wooden planks around the canyon’s river, and admiring the vibrant green ferns that surrounded us was magical. 

 Look closely - that's me at the bottom

Surprisingly, our necks were not sore from looking up all the time

Entering Fern Canyon

Getting over and around the water in Fern Canyon

From Fern Canyon, the end of our inland hiking expedition, we walked almost 1 mile back to the campground along the beach.  As I have overheard Colin describe the experience to others, the walk and the campground in general had a very “post-apocalyptic” feel because the sky broke neither blue nor sunlight and each campsite contained a solemn camper with obligatory fire.  The skies remained overcast (though we did catch a glimpse of a sliver of the sun as it dipped into the horizon), and the weather remained cool and damp during our entire 22 hour stay.  On the hike and in the canyon we did not experience the same dreariness as on the beach.

Colin's "post-apocalyptic" experience on the beach

The glimpse of sun as it dipped into the horizson

After indulging in lots of local delicacies in Napa Valley, our lunch, dinner, and breakfast in the Redwoods were comprised of food we brought with us.  I was very grateful for the metal food storage containers provided by the park service at the campsite after posted notices reminded me that bears inhabit the area.  One of our first stops in San Jose, after In-and-Out Burger, was at Costco to stock up on canned sardines, salty chips, mixed nuts and Clif Bars for our days in the parks.  We quickly learned how to make a satisfying meal by crushing the chips and adding them to the sardines in tomato sauce.  It was like having a fish stew.  Throughout the course of the 15 days, we went through about 20 small cans (6 oz each) of sardines, 2 large Costco size bags of chips, a large canister of mixed nuts and 20 Clif Bars. 

Stocking up on sardines, Clif Bars, nuts, and chips at Costco

What experiences have you had on the coast in Northern California? Did it resemble a post-apocalyptic scene?

What staple food items do you buy when you are traveling on the road and/or when camping?

33 Hours in Napa Valley

We were both exhausted as we made our way up the mountain in Napa to our lodging – my former colleague’s home.  Once we arrived, we were grateful for a night’s sleep on the pull-out couch in a very large “cottage,” set among vineyards at the top of a mountain near St. Helena, CA.

We awoke to a glorious day, filled with sunshine, and had a delicious breakfast laid out by our hostess Ellen, a Dietitian who is now attending culinary school at The Culinary Institute of America. The local fruits and artisan breads were the highlights of an all-around wonderful breakfast.  It was just the thing we needed before setting out to explore the region by bike. 

While we did not engage in the 30 or 100 mile “bike ride” that was being held in Napa Valley, we did ride about 25 miles with many who were part of that ride.  Not only were we not willing to get up early for the ride, the bike shops were not yet open at that time of day. 

 

Taking a break from our ride to take a few pictures

Note the other riders ahead of me

Halfway through our ride, we found the charming Cliff Lede Vineyard just off a side road that seemed perfect for a break.  We enjoyed the warm, dry mid-afternoon under the pergola, near the fountain and refueled with snacks that we brought with us and with the water provided by the vineyard.  Others around us were oblivious to our intrusion as they sampled the vineyard’s wine.  After riding in the warm weather, wine was the last thing I wanted. I could tell how dry it was when my lips starting feeling chapped. This became my reminder to drink more water.

Enjoying a break under the pergola at Cliff Lede Vineyard

The very cute courtyard at Cliff Lede Vineyard

One of the many vineyards along the road between St. Helena and Yountville

On our way back to St. Helena, we passed the take-out joint called Gott’s Roadside, whose long lines led us to believe the food was worth eating.  So, after returning our bicycles, we walked to Gott’s and enjoyed a burger and raw tuna tacos, which were both delicious.  The green onions, avocado, sesame and cilantro on the tuna added wonderful flavor.  Colin, who has a critical palate, gave the burger two thumbs up and an approval rating similar to In-and-Out burger, maintaining both just below his beloved Shake Shack on the scale of best burgers.

Gott's Roadside

Raw tuna tacos (left) and Gott's Burger (right)

With the rest of our afternoon, and before heading back to the “cottage on the hill,” we walked around St. Helena, drove around some of the areas we had not seen on our bicycles, and went to check out the Culinary Institute of America. 

Back at the cottage, Ellen was busy preparing another wonderful spread for our pre-dinner appetizers.  The blue cheese filled and bacon-wrapped heated figs were divine, giving me a new favorite appetizer.  It is a recipe I plan to try in the future. Eating the appetizers under the gazebo among the vineyards could also have contributed to the amazing dining experience.

View of the vineyards from behind the cottage

Ellen was able to reserve a table at a farm-to-fork restaurant called Market, which was not overly expensive.  On a previous visit to the restaurant, Ellen’s husband raved about his burger, so we decided to try one.  And since we had filled ourselves on appetizers, we decided on a salad for our second meal.  Throughout these posts you will notice that Colin and I share all of our meals.  Thankfully, neither of us are picky eaters, so we are able to order any two meals and split half of each.  I find it to be one of the best things about our traveling experiences. 

The other thing you will notice is that we don’t take many pictures of our meals or experiences when in the company of friends/family. We try to enjoy the experience with people and be fully present with them instead of focusing on getting it documented.  I am not always successful at being attentive with people, but I do try.

Our short visit in Napa Valley was just what we needed to start our journey.  I was very grateful for the two nights lodging, delicious meals, and fantastic weather.  On Monday morning, after another overly satisfying meal, I felt ready to begin our journey north.

What was your favorite part about Napa Valley or what do you look forward to in the area? 

I definitely enjoyed all the local food and the weather!