11 October 2012

Back in Vancouver for a Day

We woke to cloudy, damp weather in Whistler again on Wednesday morning and decided we were ready to head back to Vancouver, hoping there would be sun once we left the mountains.  On our way back along the Sea to Sky Highway, the clouds broke a bit and we got to see some blue skies and pockets of sun.  The drive between Whistler and Vancouver really is picturesque.

One of the many beautiful views on the Sea to Sky Highway

Back in Vancouver, we visited a few places that we did not see while on bikes. One of these places was the Gastown district, the historic area of the city. There was a steam clock that drew a great deal of attention with the steam and whistles that announced the passage of 15 minutes.  We parked ourselves in the Starbucks across the street for a bit to use the free wi-fi and while seated there, I managed to get a photo of the clock when the steam was visible.

The Gastown steam clock steaming and whistling every 15 minutes.

View of the cruise ship docked at Canada Place with 
North Vancouver in the distance and dark clouds looming overhead

After a leisure stroll through Gastown and a quick walk through the seedy Chinatown district, we found a small gem of a restaurant at La Taqueria.  Colin really wanted to try beef tongue, so we ordered a Taco "De Lengua."  And, since the tacos were so small, and a better deal to get 4, we also tried the pork "Carnitas," the fish "Pescado," and chicken, "Tinga de Pollo."

Eating beef tongue tacos from La Taqueria was the highlight for Colin

We made our way out of the city to the suburbs in southeastern Vancouver to check into our airbnb accommodations  Our very friendly host spent a lot of time getting to know us and sharing some of her travel adventures with us. We weren't really sure what we wanted to do with the afternoon, and had thought taking a ferry to Vancouver Island would be fun.  By the time we arrived, it was almost 4pm.  The rain had mostly stayed away, but on the boat we did experience showers on and off that kept us moving in and out of the boat for the hour and a half ride.  We kept our eyes focused on the water, looking for the pods of orca that make their home in the waters along our ride, but we never managed to see any.  

Another British Columbia Ferry coming through the small channel

One of the moments of clear skies

A sea plane landing nearby

In hindsight, we wished we had made plans to take an early ferry so we could have taken the bus to Victoria on Vancouver Island.  By the time we arrived at the ferry terminal, it would have been too late to catch a bus back for the last ferry back to Vancouver.  Instead, we got off the boat and turned right back around to come back.  The rain was more prevalent on the ride back and we found out the ship crew typically made announcements to alert people to wildlife near the ship. So, we stayed warm inside the boat, trying desperately to get a good wi-fi signal on our phones.

It was nice to be on the water, though I prefer sunny skies and warmer temperatures.  We also met a really interesting couple from Canada. The female was from an eastern island off the coast of Newfoundland and he was from Vancouver Island, the two farthest points from each other and they lived near the center of the country in Ottawa.  Working for the federal government, they had a significant amount of vacation time they were able to use together and decided to make a cross country trip on the train. I loved hearing about their hometowns and the experience of traveling cross country on a train.

Arriving back at the ferry terminal around 7:30pm, we decided to head back near the downtown area for dinner.  One of our favorite food journalists, Mark Bittman, had endorsed Vij's Indian Restaurant just south of Granville Island. Knowing the menu was more expensive than we cared to pay, and having read that Vij's sister restaurant was just as good, we went to the less expensive Vij's Rangoli next door.

The 30 minute wait was more manageable, thanks to some appetizers made available to the people not yet seated.  It was also worth it once we got our delicious meals, which we devoured!  We both left the small, simply decorated restaurant with fully satisfied appetites.

A vegetarian dish with chickpeas

The lamb in cumin

Back at the airbnb, we were able to get some laundry done while our hostess cooked us a delicious egg/peach quiche for breakfast.  We enjoyed getting to know another "renter," a woman from Montreal, who had lived in San Diego for the past few years and had recently quit her job to move back to Canada.  She was taking about 2 months off before starting to look for a new job, and had traveled from San Diego to Vancouver and still had plans to see Whistler and Banff.  Colin and I asked a lot of questions about how she managed to find work in a new location, and were completely in awe of this woman who was taking such a risk.  Her experience in the past had always turned out fine, and we wished her luck before we parted.

I can't imagine just quitting my job and driving to a new location to find work upon arrival. I know several people who have done it and it usually seems to work out for them.  In this economy, it seems like a huge risk, which I'm not sure I could ever take.  I no longer recall the woman's profession, but maybe it is easier in certain industries. 

The highlights of our second time in Vancouver mostly came in getting to meet people - on the ferry, our airbnb hostess, and a fellow traveler.  The Indian food at Vij's was also very memorable. During the 24 hours back in Vancouver, we did not do quite as much sightseeing as we had been used to, but it was nice to talk with people, get laundry done, and just hang out for a bit.  It's a good thing we did because once we left Vancouver and arrived back in the U.S., we were back on full sightseeing mode!

Stay tuned for a recap of our final days in the Pacific Northwest, making our way back through Seattle to Olympic National Park, Cannon Beach, Mt. Hood, and wrapping up in Portland.

What do you think about leaving a job for a new location when you don't already have a job lined up? Would you ever do it? If you have already done it, how did it work out for you??


09 October 2012

"Chillin'" in Whistler, British Columbia

The cold, damp weather we've been having here in Raleigh the past two days reminded me of our time in Whistler.  Though we did have a mostly sunny evening when we arrived in Whistler, dusk and cool air arrived too quickly.


Checking out the Olympic rings in Whistler Village

The village was very cute and all the hotels had a modern alpine cottage look to them. There were lots of cute shops (mostly outdoor apparel), a few Starbucks (we used their wi-fi a lot!), and some decent restaurants.  We really enjoyed walking around the village.

One of the many hotels in Whistler Village

For dinner, we made our way to the Irish Pub, Dubh Linn Gate. The evening special was "buy one, get one free" fish and chips with any beverage.  I ordered a cup of tea as my beverage so we could get the special, and Colin also ordered the Steak and Guinness Pie.  Since we planned to spend two nights in Whistler, we figured we could keep some leftovers.

Our small bar table filled with two orders of fish and chips, 
a steak and Guinness pie, two waters, and a cup of tea

When we stayed at the Hostel International in Vancouver (and before we really took stock of the terrible conditions in our room), we had made reservations at the Hostel International in Whistler.  We reserved 2 bunks in a 4 person coed dorm room for $73.  During our stays at the hostel in both Vancouver and Whistler, we kept comparing the Canadian experience to the experiences we had staying in Hostel International rooms in Australia and New Zealand.  To give you the summary, the hostels in Canada were 2-3 times more expensive, the Whistler hostel came close to being among the best ones we stayed in on our previous trip (if you factor out the cost), and the hostel in Vancouver was probably the worst hostel we've ever stayed in.

The clean and modern Hostel International in Whistler

The forecast had predicted that the weather would be favorable on Tuesday, and we made plans to be there for the sun. Unfortunately, we woke to cloudy skies and damp, cool air, which did not go away for the rest of our time visiting the Olympic mountain.  It all turned out just fine because Colin's foot was hurting and it would have been tough for him to do a lot of hiking. Instead, we decided to ride on all the gondolas all day, including the famous (and impressive!) Peak-to-Peak Gondola.

If you visit Whistler, and want to ride the gondolas, I highly recommend starting your day by 10am.  We were up early, but tried to hold out to see if the weather would get better. Instead, it got worse, and when we purchased our tickets, we learned that the last ride down the mountain was at 5pm!  Tickets were a bit pricey, at $45 each, but if we got to the top of the mountain early in the day, and were able to hike some of the trails on a nice day, it would have been worth it!

During our 4-5 hours "exploring" Whistler and Blackcomb Mountains by gondola, we rode four different gondolas for a total of 7 "rides." Not surprisingly, the highlight was riding the Peak-to-Peak Gondola between the Roundhouse Lodge (on Whistler Mountain) and Rendevous Lodge (on Blackcomb Mountain) in each direction.  According to Wikipedia, the Peak to Peak  is 1.88 miles and 1430 feet above the valley.  There were literally four towers supporting the gondolas, with two on each mountain. For the rest of the ride - a solid mile - there was no tower holding us above the valley. I'm not a fan of heights and thought I would freak out, but even to Colin's surprise, I was fine.

Looking down on Whistler Village as we ride the enclosed
Whistler Village Gondola up Whistler Mountain

View from the Roundhouse Lodge towards the 
summit of Whistler (still farther up the mountain)

Making our way up to the top of Whistler Mountain 
on the open-air Peak Express Gondola

Very foggy at the summit of Whistler Mountain, it's a 
good thing there are bright orange warning signs!

We caught glimpses of the mountains 
and the sun throughout the day

Getting ready to board the Peak-to-Peak Gondola

Suspended 1400 feet above the 
valley with no towers in sight!

Warming up with some lentil soup in the Rendezvous Lodge

Looking for bears, enjoying the flowers, and trying 
not to freeze on the Solar Coastal Express Gondola

The enclosed gondolas (Peak-to-Peak and Whistler Village Gondola) were a tad bit warmer than the "open chair" gondolas, but it was much harder to take pictures through the glass with the rain drops on the window.  After riding a few open chairs, I was ready to get back down the mountain and into a hot shower.  That seems to be the best way to warm back up after being outdoors in cold, damp weather.

For our second night in Whistler, we had tried to get a good deal on a "name your own price" hotel in Whistler Village, but were unsuccessful. Instead, we found an inexpensive airbnb room not far from the main area.  The private bath had plenty of hot water (thankfully!), and the small room (with it's own thermostat) was comfortable enough to enjoy a good night's sleep. We were able to leave our leftovers in the fridge before heading out the the gondolas, and it was nice to step out of the hot shower and have a warm plate of fish and chips ready to eat!

Before turning in for the night, we stayed warm and enjoyed some tea (me) and dessert (me and Colin) at one of the Starbucks in Whistler Village. There, we caught up on e-mails, booked accommodations for our travels back south, and did a little people-watching.

Overall, we made the best of our day in Whistler. We always enjoy sunny skies and warm weather, and we lucked out for most of the trip. We were bound to have a rainy day.  Because Colin wasn't feeling up to hiking, it was probably best that the weather forced us to limit our activities.  It just means we have to go back!  I'm sure it's quite a sight in the winter, with all the tourists and snow on the mountains.  It's no wonder the Olympics were held in one of the cutest villages I've ever experienced - or perhaps hosting the Olympics caused the village to step up to the plate!  Maybe I can get Colin to try snowboarding with me sometime and we can relive the Olympic experience!!

What was your favorite memory of the 2010 Olympics held in Whistler/Vancouver?
Did you see anything about the village (Whistler) or city (Vancouver) that impressed you?